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A review of one dish at three different Bay Area restaurants By Ji Hyun Lim

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image courtesy www.yancancook.com

Eggplant with Garlic and Spicy Sauce

Asian eggplant is sautéed in minced garlic, chili, sesame oil, fish sauce and sometimes reduced with water and cornstarch. Ground pork may also be added for flavor.

• Good: New Cheung Hing Restaurant
• Better: A-1 Café Restaurant
• Best: Emmy’s Restaurant

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Good: New Cheung Hing Restaurant
On the Menu: “#62 Eggplant with hot garlic sauce” Price: $4.95	1936 Irving Street (b/t 20th & 21st) San Francisco, CA 94122 (415) 566-2892 (415) 566-2882

“Too hungry not to park” 

This restaurant is in the sprawling Sunset district — or some might say, “the real Chinatown.” It took 15 to 20 minutes to park on a Saturday afternoon. There is a strip of Chinese restaurants down Irving Street but not everyone serves garlic eggplant.

The atmosphere is “minimalist,” to put it nicely. Checkered plastic tablecloths, wooden chairs with vinyl cushions and fluorescent lighting.

Dozens of aromatic roasted ducks hang behind the window.

The eggplant? It’s OK. It needs more garlic, and it’s a little on the sweet side. The eggplant, itself, is kind of mushy, but the serving is large and the price — unbeatable.

The food arrives in 10 minutes. The service can be frustrating if you’re in a hurry to put more quarters in the parking meter.

The restaurant is cash-only, and the hours of operation are confusing. Check out this restaurant only if you’re in the neighborhood.

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Better: A-1 Café Restaurant
On the menu: “Eggplant with spicy sauce” Price: $5.95	779 Clay Street (Chinatown) San Francisco, CA 94108 415-398-7918 Open: 11a.m.-10 p.m.

“I thought it was vegetarian”

Don’t trust the menu — it lies. The menu says $5.95 but they charge $6.95; the dish is under “vegetarian,” but there’s meat in it. You will almost forgive them because they always give a complimentary bowl of the soup of the day. It’s not goopy like some at other Chinese restaurants, but actually whets the appetite. A-1 is a small establishment — try to fit eight tables in a San Francisco studio apartment — that small.

The food arrives in four minutes flat on a slow day.

Unlike the other two restaurants, A-1 gives you an itty-bitty serving of rice. If you’re on a low-carb diet, A-1 is for you. They charge 85 cents for it.

Even when you ask for spicy, it’s still on the mild side. The eggplant is hot temperature-wise, and goopy. It is edible, though, if you like ground pork.

A-1 gives you the Chinatown mom- and-pop experience. If you’re in the neighborhood, check it out. Ask for more rice if you’re hungry –— but pay 85 cents more. Bring your spare change. It’s cash-only.

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Best: Emmy’s Restaurant
On the menu: “Eggplant with garlic and spicy sauce” Price: $4.95	700 Monterey Blvd. San Francisco, CA 94127 (415) 585-8887 Moving to: 1923 Ocean Ave (b/t Ashton & Victoria) Open: 11a.m. - 9:30 p.m.

“That dependably good neighborhood restaurant”

Emmy’s is nestled near St. Francis Woods. There’s no reserved parking. You’ll find yourself strolling in a residential area and walking at least one block to eat. They are moving to Ocean Ave. though (see below). The rigorous walk up the flight of stairs is worthwhile because you’ll find dining area amply-lighted and pleasant.

There’s no wait even on a weekend night and the service is decent. They even have the courtesy to ask if you want your meal spicy or mild. The food is on the table in 15 minutes on a busy day.

The eggplant’s presentation is nice. Steamy enough to unclog facial pores, and garlicky enough for your date to pass on the good night kiss. The dish is roasted with sesame oil and spices. If you like a low-key, pleasant eggplant experience, this is your pick.